Around Venice – Torcello

The wistful isle of Torcello rests comfortably in a Northern corner of the Venetian lagoon. It is easily reached by vaporetto and offers a tranquil (usually) retreat from the hustle and bustle of Venice. Although it is very sparsely populated today, in times gone by it was the grandest, richest, and most populous of the lagoon islands.

Brief history

After the fall of the Roman Empire, mainland residents fleeing successive waves of barbarian invaders sought sanctuary on Torcello. By 638, it had become the bishop’s official residence.

Growth and prosperity quickly followed, with the population reaching 10,000 to 30,000 by the 10th century. However, some scholars now deem this an overestimate, suggesting that 3,000 might be nearer the mark.

By the 12th century, decline had set in. Canals became choked with silt, and malaria along with other diseases ravaged the inhabitants. Many decided that a better life was to be had in the increasingly prosperous Venice, returning only to salvage building materials from demolished palazzi and cloisters.

All that remains of its ancient splendour is a small, grassy piazza surrounded by a cathedral, bell tower, church, and the small council and archives palaces.

Today

Torcello has the air of melancholia that often surrounds fallen grandeur. This feeling is intensified under the subdued sunlight of late autumn, particularly if there are few tourists.

After disembarking at the vaporetto stop, you head along a well-made path by the side of Torcello’s main canal. Very soon, you will spy a short, grassy lane that leads to Casa Museo Andrich, an artist’s house displaying over 1000 works.

This has only recently opened to the public, and entrance is for guided tours only. These can be booked on the Venezia Unica portal, Viva ticket, and vivovenezia.it. The stroll to the piazza only takes 5-10 minutes, and along the way, there are opportunities for refreshment: