Secretive, romantic Lake Iseo is the smallest of the four major lakes of Lombardy. This unspoilt, picturesque gem is accessible from many of the resorts around Lake Garda: so if you are staying in this area why not pay it a visit. You are unlikely to be disappointed.
Getting there
The easiest way is to opt for an organised tour. But, depending upon where you are staying, getting there by public transport is both simple and cheap. Firstly you must head for Brescia, which is easily reached by train from Desenzano and Peschiera or by the regular bus service that runs from Gardone and Salò. Trains to Iseo from Brescia depart from platforms marked 2 ovest or 3 ovest, which are tucked away to the side of platform 1. The journey takes about 30 minutes, then after leaving the railway station aim straight ahead, and within a few minutes you will reach the tranquil port of Iseo. Tranquil that is apart from Friday, when you will have to thread your way through an extensive and bustling street market.
Lake Iseo and Monte Isola
Nestling between sometimes snow-capped, low mountains and surrounded by woodland, this ethereal, timeless, narrow, elongated ‘S’ shaped lake stretches some 25km. Dotted along the lakeside and connected by a pleasant coastal road are some of Italy’s most attractive port settlements. Rising majestically out of the lake to a height of 600m is the evocative Monte Isola, reputedly the largest inhabited lake island in Europe. Ferries connect the island to the major settlements around the lake.
Monte Isola is a walker’s delight, with car free paths linking its ancient hamlets, the highest of which is Cure (460m). From here a steep, rugged pathway leads to the Madonna della Ceriola shrine (600m). But unless you are fit and have carefully calculated the available time this is probably beyond the scope of a day visit. Instead you might choose a leisurely waterside stroll, enjoying the superb views, soaking up the ambience of a gentler time and perhaps sampling some of the fine local cuisine. A friend of mine from Desenzano assures me that the best salami in Italy can be found on Monte Isola.
