Explore the enchanting charm of Malcesine, where azure waters meet lush mountains, inviting you to experience Italy's hi...
Jun 1, 2015
David Jackson
Malcesine lies on the eastern shore of Lake Garda, nestling picturesquely between the turquoise lake and the lower green slopes of the Monte Baldo range. It is one of Lake Garda’s prime holiday destinations, drawing many day visitors from the other resorts around the lake. For these travelers, Malcesine is often considered a ‘must see’ place on their holiday itinerary.
Getting there
Malcesine can be reached by buses that run fairly regularly from various locations:
Riva (25 minutes)
Torbole (18 minutes)
Torri Del Benaco (30 minutes)
Garda (45 minutes)
Bardolino (50 minutes)
Lazise (1 hour)
Peschiera (1 hour 15 minutes)
The Malcesine bus station is conveniently located adjacent to the Tourist Information Office and close to the Monte Baldo cableway. If you are staying at the northern resorts of Limone, Riva, or Torbole, Malcesine is readily accessible by boat.
However, if you are based in Desenzano or Sirmione, the journey can be long. The rapid service, which is significantly more costly, is the only practical option, taking about 2 hours and 30 minutes from Desenzano.
Pro tip: If you plan to visit more than one resort during your day out, consider purchasing a boat day ticket for the whole of Lake Garda to save money.
The town
The small, compact town is dominated by the magnificent Castello Scaligero, which sits proudly in an elevated lakeside position. Ferries arrive at a small harbor surrounded by cafés and restaurants. Nearby is the 15th-century Palazzo dei Capitani, the headquarters of the lake's captains during the Venetian rule, making it the town’s second most important building after the castle.
Malcesine’s steep cobbled streets are lined with the usual tourist shops. You’ll find:
These spots are perfect for sitting back, relaxing, and watching the world go by while enjoying a drink or ice cream at one of the many cafés, bars, and restaurants. The prices of food and drinks here seem a tad cheaper than at some other lake resorts—perhaps only a euro here or a euro there, but it all helps. On our recent visit, we discovered a bar with a very reasonably priced carafe of house white wine that far exceeded our expectations.
Castello Scaligero
The original castle, built by the Lombards, had a relatively short life before being destroyed by the Franks in 591. The Franks rebuilt it a couple of hundred years later. From 1277 until 1387, it was occupied by the Della Scala family, who began to shape the present structure.
The bell, cast in 1442, is still in working order. Over the following centuries, it was occupied by:
Visconti of Milan
The Venetians
The French
The Austrians
In 1902, the castle was designated a National Monument. Today, it houses the Museum of Natural History of Monte Baldo and Lake Garda. After renovations in 2008, it now offers an up-to-date multimedia experience.
There is also a room dedicated to the great German writer Goethe, whose sketching of the castle once led to an interrogation on suspicion of spying.
From April to October, the castle and museum have visitor-friendly opening hours:
Daily from 9:30 am to 5:30/6:30 pm
From November to March, it only opens on Saturday and Sunday from 11:30 am to 4:00 pm
Lakeside walks
The possibility of a pleasant lakeside walk may not seem immediately obvious to day visitors, but with a little searching, the start of pedestrian and cycle paths can be easily located.
The path heading south is perhaps the more interesting. It leads past shingle beaches to Val di Sogno (valley of dreams). Along the way, you will pass two of Lake Garda’s five islands. If time allows, you can continue to the old fishing village of Cassone (about 1 hour), where you will also pass Europe’s shortest river, measuring just 175 cm long.
Cassone is home to the Museo del Lago, dedicated to the history of the fishing industry.
Important: The museum's opening hours are Tuesday to Sunday from 10:00 am to 1:00 pm and 3:00 pm to 6:00 pm.
Monte Baldo Cableway
This cableway is a major attraction for many visitors to Malcesine. While most people look forward to experiencing the mountain terrain and enjoying magnificent views, the more active visitors are there for serious mountain hiking, biking, or paragliding.
For such an important attraction, it is surprising that the town is lacking in direction signs. If you arrive by bus, this isn’t a problem, as the bus station is close to the start of the cableway. However, if you arrive by ferry, you must head uphill through the town, turn left for a short distance along a busy main road, and cross via one of the underpasses.
The journey to the top station is in two stages:
The first stage is in a cable car that holds 45 people. It passes over hazy grey olive groves and then above the trees to Stazione San Michele, an interchange at 575m. You may have a short wait here before boarding a larger cable car (80 persons).
The larger cable car completes a 360-degree rotation, offering magnificent views before reaching Stazione Monte Baldo (1760m). Here, you will find a couple of restaurants and cafés.
Walking paths at the top are well made and well signed. A path to the left takes you on a short, fairly easy walk across meadowland to a viewing point that offers superb views of the lake and the Dolomites.
There are many other possibilities if you have the time and are equipped for mountain walking. For instance, you can trek to Cima Valdritta (2218m), the highest point of the Monte Baldo range.
Important: Even if you plan to spend just a leisurely hour on the mountain, remember that temperatures are lower and UV light intensity is higher than at the lakeside.
Descending to Malcesine may involve a wait at the interchange, as the 80 passengers in the large cable car cannot fit into the waiting smaller cable car that completes the descent.
Times, tickets, and queues
The Monte Baldo cable car website will provide you with up-to-date times, prices, and reductions. It is particularly important for cyclists to check this out, as there are restrictions.
We usually visit in early May and have not encountered problems with queues; however, we were advised that during high season, in good weather, there could be a 1-2 hour wait.
Pro tip: Queuing times tend to be less on Fridays, so consider planning your visit accordingly.
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About the Author
David Jackson
David lectured in Science at a college in the English Midlands for many years. He now writes about places he visits regularly, with the aim of providing practical and useful information for visitors. He has travelled widely in Switzerland, Italy, and France, and in recent years has focused much of his writing on Edinburgh.
