Siberian Express Dreams - Eating Aboard

Eating aboard the trains was an experience that added a unique flavor to our journey. While dining cars were generally available, many passengers, particularly Russians and younger Europeans on a budget, opted to bring their own provisions. The coal-fired samovar at the end of each car, tended by the provinista, served as a constant source of hot, potable water.

Inside the cabins, we often found tables lined with: Tea bags Instant coffee Dried noodle packages Spoons, forks, and an assortment of bowls and cups

At most stops, passengers would leap off the train for a quick smoke—absolutely forbidden on the train—and make a dash to the trackside shops to replenish their ramen supply or grab some soft drinks or bottled water. Even late at night, independent vendors stood by the train doors, offering homemade sausages, dried meats, smoked fish, and other substantial foods.

Our provinistas could usually be counted on to have a stash of candy bars, chips, and ramen. Pricing varied based on supply, demand, and overhead:

• Independent vendors tended to be the cheapest, as they did not compete directly with the shops.
• The shops fell in the middle of the pricing spectrum.
• The provinistas were the most expensive but often the only choice available.

Pro tip: The provinistas would gladly brew tea or coffee for those without cups or tea bags, charging only 30 cents US per cup.

Dining Cars and Cuisine

The trains we traveled on were either Russian or Chinese. However, the dining cars reflected the country we were in. For example:

• Crossing Russia on a Russian train meant we had a Russian dining car.
• Our second-class train from Ulan Bator to the Chinese border featured a Mongolian dining car.

Interestingly, there was no dining car on the first part of the Mongolian trip from the Russian border to Ulan Bator, as we entered after midnight and arrived at 5:40 in the morning. When we boarded the train to Beijing, we not only changed wheels but also dining cars, switching to a Chinese version.